4/11/07

Review: Ciao, Bella

Skipping here a bit away from my report from the Caribbean to report from a busy corner of Geary, the one in the Inner Richmond just down from Nizario's with a Burger King on one corner, a Toyota dealer on another and a Kragen across the street. Kristen and I were going to eat downtown but didn't want to wander to North Beach and deal. We had settled on Italian, and I'll admit that I obsessed about where to go closer to the western neighborhoods. Bella was the best I could come up with, and K had even hit it before. Worth an official visit.

Maybe my skepticism was healthy, but it wasn't on the mark. Readers will recall that I go easy on the starches, but we each had fresh ravioli that knocked our socks off.

We sat sidesaddle on a banquette and watched traffic roll westward in the late light with something sparkling, as is our wont. The prosecco rosé was of a grapefruit color like the Handley I used to get shipped over from Mendo County, like the flower floating in a glass goblet on the table next to the tea light in the brandy snifter. The location is interesting, to say the least, and the Chron makes note of this in its two reviews. How many times have I staggered in two doors up the block for a slice but never checked out the corner? What of the parking gods, gracious or hellacious? If we weren't on public transit, it's likely we wouldn't have landed here.

Anyway, the small antipasto plate was good for two, with roasted eggplant, zucchini, cured salumi, a little fresh mozzarella and some dark olives, and for $3 more I bet the large would be a nice nosh for four.

I leaned toward the specials, which are listed on a separate page. Should I have the veal lasagna or the Vin Santo-braised short ribs? Looking for something lighter, I tried the lobster ravioli with tomato-cream sauce. K had the chicken ravioli in tomatoes and basil, off the regular menu (both $15).

The entrees were light, perfectly seasoned, very well paired with the prosecco, without the heaviness of butter or anything else. The tomato-cream sauce, sometimes known as the rossini, lets you have the best of both worlds, but instead of pinkish my plate showed some of the robustness of the beverage and the flower on the table, but not as much intensity as the tomatoes on Kristen's dish, which distinctly was made with chicken but also not dry or bland or overdone. Two versions of ravioli, both flawless, soft as pillows and handing the flavor to the fillings.

We had the hostess and a waiter checking in on us, fetching us fresh drinks and also comping us zabaglione with berries, mint, cinnamon and demi spoons. That was very nice. Without tip, the tab was $75.

For those who say that I'm fastidious and find fault with everything, even a nearly perfect dining experience, I know you're waiting so I won't disappoint: The table needed shimming.

Next post: latitude and longitude.