Greens Party

I love ordering beets and turnips from the box, not just because the root veg goes great cut into chunks, brushed with olive oil, salt, pepper and a bit of cider vinegar, then roasted for 30 minutes; but also because they arrive with their greens attached. Here's what we did with a whole mess of turnip greens tonight.

TJ's New Product Roundup

The past few months we've road-tested a few new products (or new to us) from Trader Joe's. A quick review:

* White bean hummus: It's a nice break from regular hummus, which is always in the Bistro fridge. But it comes topped with a cloying layer of olive oil and sun--dried tomatoes that's hard to avoid. Grade: C+

* Cherry-granola cookies: I used to be indifferent about dessert. Sure, a bite of ice cream or a biscotto would be nice, I would say, but do I need it? Nah. Until now. The cherry-granola cookies are crunchy and moist at the same time, an addictive balance of rich molasses and tart cherry chunks. Grade: A

* No-boil lasagna noodles: Finally. TJ's always carried other fresh pasta options, why not lasagna? Grade: B

* Fage Greek-style yogurt: Thick and creamy, just like I remember eating at a beachfront cafe on Santorini after sleeping all night on the beach. (Those were the days.) One slight difference: the lady of the Bistro demands no-fat, so we get the no-fat. Not nearly as rich, but the texture is about the same. Grade: B+

The Father of Invention

As most of you know, the Bistro Hugo has a new, very persnickety customer who insists that the kitchen stay open 24-7. In some ways she's not hard to please; as long it comes from a boob, she doesn't really care what she eats.

Any kitchen is delighted to have a patron who sits down and asks for "the usual," I guess, but how many cranky critics need their diapers changed between the appetizer and the main course? Michael Bauer, I'm looking at you.

The adult section of the Bistro has not completely shut down, of course (you thought otherwise?). We've had plenty of outside supplement, but worry not, we haven't gone completely frozen pizza and microwave Indian. (I hope soon to post the recipe for Uncle A-Ron's Spectacular Chili Bomb, secret ingredient: chick peas.) The trick is to take the odds and ends and come up with something that feels new enough to make a sleep deprived home chef feel worthy again, even for a brief moment.

We had a small piece of leftover lamb in the fridge the other night. I chopped it into rough bite-size pieces, trimmed some but not all the fat, and sauteed it in olive oil with half a shallot, a splash of red wine, and a can of cannellini beans (I recommend the small, firm S&W brand). We served it with its own juice over couscous, and with a small glass of red wine and a couple candles on the table, it was a brief respite from the 3-hour diaper-breastfeed-sleep cycle that our newest Hugonaut has established.

I love cannellini as what our friends at Chow call a "cheater" food: an easy pantry resource that embellishes all manner of dishes. I've tossed a can into soups, stews, pastas, and salads. As with all canned beans, it's better to give them a quick rinse under cold water before using. Note: The TJ's version are too big and get too mushy for my taste.

Kid Stuff

New link to some old colleagues: Gastrokid, a blog by ex-Standardites Hugh Garvey and Matthew Yeomans. A quick spin through their material yields this interesting tip: only buy meat that's on sale. Read on to find out why.

June Swoon

A couple years ago fellow Bistrovian BrO turned me on to the marmalade of June Taylor. Best marmalade I've ever had, and better yet I had it all to myself, as The Fanch can't stand the stuff.

Our old friends at Chow have a video interview with June here.

Wine: Rabbit Ridge Allure de Robles

I found it at TJ's, its inconspicuous spot on the shelf marked by a celebratory sticker of a silver medal from some contest or another. At $5.99, I figured it was worth a shot. It was indeed. Our oenophiliac dinner guest last night also gave it a thumbs-up, and that was the last third of a bottle that had been opened three days previous. we drank it with a lamb-and-roasted-veggie lasagna.

Note: the bottle did not specify the year, which I believe makes it the "NV" (no vintage?).

Returning to TJ's yesterday, the Allure was awarded its own end-of-aisle display, the type normally reserved for Charles Shaw. Get it while it's hot.

TJ East Bay Delay

This time, Oakland city council members (including Barbara Boxer's son) are making it difficult for two Trader Joe's to open in Oakland because of union concerns. Last time, it was uptight Berkeley neighbors fretting about secretive German families and cheap booze. When are they going to learn? You can't stop the Fearless Flyer.

Tainted

Well, it happened to us: I put out some burgers in the afternoon for an evening meal, and as I pull in and zip down the cowhide, Kristen says: "Check out the Gate and see if we've got bad beef." Something like that.

I look, and there it is. On my patty pack from Trader Joe's Butcher Shop, the "freeze-by" date is April 20, on the edge of the envelope. It looks like there's another date, "0422," but it's not clear what that number is. The Web site is confusing too.

Another pound of beef goes to the dump. What to do, go back for more?

Wine: Robert Hall Rhone de Robles

Before going further, please note: I'd love to see more wine reviews, even if just a few lines long. If you open a bottle and have anything to say, let everyone know. A few quick notes, the price, thumbs-up or thumbs-down. Onward...

So I'm meandering my way through TJ's last week, digging "While My Guitar Gently Weeps" on the satellite radio and circling back and again past the quesadilla samples, when I realize we're out of rosso back at the Bistro. I'm skeptical of Joe's wine selection, and I've gotten bad advice from wearers of Hawaiian shirts often enough to forego all confidence in their wine expertise, but I ask anyway. It helps that the guy in the wine aisle is just about the oldest TJ's employee I've ever seen: thinning hair, gray beard and moustache, wiry build. I give him my criteria: no fruit bombs, please; good with BBQ meats of all types; and up to $10, maybe a bit more if it's justified. He leads me straight to the Robert Hall 2004 Rhone de Robles.

Robles, as in Paso, as in Central Coast. $10.99, and well worth it. I went back tonight and only found the 2005. We'll see how it compares.

La Zuppa

Feeling a little under the weather and as always overbooking the to-do list for the evening (always thwarted, of course, by unforeseen events like a sink-spout malfunction, which now is on Saturday's to-do list), it's time to pull the quart of TJ's tomato and red pepper soup from the earthquake-food stash. After a quick swing by the natural store (a stopgap) for pricey low-sodium, no-MSG chicken stock, I get back in the kitchen and slice some zucchini and dice some shallots.

I saute these in olive oil, then mix in the soup and stock. While that's coming to temperature, I've got some polenta slices browning in a cast-iron skillet. Once the soup boils a bit, I throw in some almost-done turkey meatballs that I'd set aside from making big pasta over the weekend. It's now or never for these guys.

Once everything's done, I pop in a couple of cubes of frozen basil, again from TJ's, to finish the soup. I ladle out healthy scoops into pasta bowls, place the round polenta slices (did I mention the polenta is TJ's?) in the middle and grate some Pecorino at table. Main-course soup in about 20 minutes. I'm exhausted.

Finger Lickin

I'm setting myself up for a charge of hypocrisy. Here it comes. Duck!

Chicken, actually. I think drumsticks are fun, and only one week after I bitterly complain about infantile mashed potatoes. I prefer inconsistency to hypocrisy.

Inspired by how goddamn cheap they are ($2 for a pack of 5 at TJ's), I bought two packs. Emily had two ideas:

1) Egged then breaded with a corn meal-flour-spice-herb mixture. The proportions, roughly: 1 c corn meal, 1 c flour, salt and pepper, assortment of dried herbs, a few red pepper flakes, garlic powder and a tablespoon of finely grated parm.

2) Marinated in a soy-Asian glaze: soy, rice vinegar, sherry (the recipe called for mirin), grated ginger and finely minced garlic. Maybe a squeeze of lemon. Add or subtract as taste requires.

Both were very good at first, but the faux fried chicken got soggy quickly. Nonetheless a drumstick dinner was a great change of pace. Next time, we bust out the pomegranate-mint glaze.

There's not much to it but to concoct whatever breading or marinade you like. With a liquid marinade, the 'sticks can soak for hours. Then line them up on a large oiled oven sheet. Preheat to 450. Start them there for a few minutes, then reduce heat to 400. Check them after 30; they make take a bit longer.

Something bene to nota: One must be vigilant buying the TJ's house brand chicken parts. On a few occasions I've opened the packages to find a strong odor. Buy only the most recently packed. Or better yet, go for the kosher brands, though they may not offer drumstick-only packs.

Buffaloed

A quick recommendation: Almost as good as TJ's frozen buffalo burgers are the chili-lime chicken burgers. Not bad in a pinch. However, stay away from the salmon burgers and the turkey burgers with embedded bits of corn and peas.

Product Placement: TJ's Dry Rub

Da Fanch and I have been devoted to making our own dry rub -- for food, dammit! Come on. This is a family blog. We found a recipe for "Iraqi spice mix" in a Middle Eastern cookbook that required the purchase of many different powders and other things that need to be pulverized. The result is an excellent, pungent rub for all kinds of meats, and I recommend it to anyone with time and a mortar and pestle. A Cuisinart will also do.

Second best: the TJ's "Steak & Chop Grill & Broil" mix, found in the spice rack. It's damn good, it's not too salty, and it has dried lemon zest, a nice touch. Start with it, then doctor it as you see fit. I like to add a little cinammon, especially for pork and chicken served with a couscous sprinkled with walnuts and raisins. Allahu akbar!

Pan Latin? ¡'Perate!

Say what we will about the New York Times and the particular strained relationship we have with it, but one of the best things about it (I think) is that eventually the paper gets around to nailing something right on the head, and then that’s done and over with.

Today it is the article on Latin supermarkets. First let’s get to the beans:

> A walk through the dried-bean aisle at Rancho Liborio in a case in point. There are pintos, both the larger, speckled brown ones preferred by Mexicans and the smaller, lighter-colored ones used in Peru. Pink beans appeal to Puerto Ricans, and black beans to Cubans, Guatemalans and Brazilians.

Pink! As I’ve been telling everyone my whole life, those are my favorite. Now let’s do the spice:

> Attracting Hispanic shoppers is a delicate business, according to Juan Guillermo Tornoe, who runs Hispanic Trending, a market research company in Austin, Texas. Buyers for big chains will often go to Hispanic food trade shows, order everything in sight and then wonder why their efforts to market to Latinos fail. “Well, what are you buying?” he said. “Are you buying hot sauce and expecting to sell it to Cubans?”

Yeah! Most Cubans don’t eat spicy, and in fact their food (at least in Cuba) is rather bland. Is that not what they told you at Cha Cha Cha?

I also love that there's a photo of an obese lady ladling an almost certainly sweetened agua fresca.

So thank you, Bill Keller. But no tres leches for you, Judy Miller.

Kinda Fresh Pasta

I believe we've tried all the "fresh" ravioli options at Trader Joe's. As fresh as pasta can be after sitting in airtight plastic in a cooler for God knows how many days.

And I'm not talking about the jumbo-sized, which fall apart too easily, but the regular, um, ravioli-sized. Here's how I rank them, 1 being tops:

1) mushroom
2) pesto
3) lobster
4) walnut 'n' gorgonzola

Am I forgetting any?

And look what I found.

Signs of the Coming Gastro-Apocalypse

Sheesh! This was supposed to be a good-food, good-news blog. Now all this:

First, as Michael Pollan said at a food symposium at Berkeley a few years ago (E.L.M., thanks for driving), all the country’s bees are sick. So what do we do to pollinate crops? Breed more selectively to make more of the little fellas, even though that can make colonies more vulnerable to disease. Then what? Import some other buzzers from elsewhere, which inevitably leads to the spread of diseases that makes all the bees sick. Mmmk.

Out-of-control growth isn’t only on the producer side. Frigging
Whole Foods is struggling so hard to keep up with a sector it helped create, as well as the customers it carved out for itself against TJ’s and even Safeway that it’s stocking rotten produce at premium prices. You can say the same thing about Home Depot: Piss off enough people and it’ll be painful bringing them back. I’ll take on the five aisles of holistic health crap another day.

At least Frank B had a good time tossing salad in his swanky New York steak-house tour.

UPDATE: The grain market's abuzz, so to speak, over the bee thing.