2/17/07

Review: Le Soleil Also Rises

On a balmy February night -- don't you love those words? -- we walked across the park to the Inner Richmond to see bluegrass at the Plough and Stars. But first, to eat.

Outside Burma Superstar, the sidewalk was packed with hipsters waiting for hours, apparently obeying the maxim "Never dine with anyone over 30." Incredible. Did the Guardian just review it or something? Giorgio's pizza was tempting, but an open table beckoned through the window at Le Soleil, the old Vietnamese standby.

Well, little did we know. The standby has had a makeover. No more fishtank, no more glass-topped tables. It's been quite nicely remodeled, perhaps in the way one can afford to nicely remodel at Bed Bath & Beyond, like I would really know the difference, so who cares since the room felt warmer and more elegant and friendly than before. Prices have gone up accordingly, but not shockingly. We opted for a mix of the comfortingly familiar, deep fried Imperial rolls, and the oh-so-San Francisco, brown rice instead of white.

The rice was cooked perfectly. The rolls were crisp and just oily enough to be a guilty pleasure. The pan-fried catfish filets were breaded in something crunchy but also gingery, a very nice touch. At $15 or $16, that was the most expensive item we ordered. Chicken in clay pot and a mundane but light veggie combo stirfry rounded out the meal. Total of $80 including tip for three peeps.

Not cheap, but with the improvements I think the price is deserved. I'm looking forward to seeing what else on the menu they've upgraded.

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